All Photos > on this page can be expanded to larger pics by left Clicking On for a bigger view of the thumbnail photo..
(1) When your trap arrives. Inspect it for obvious damage then untie the 18 foot leash and completely unwrap it from around the trap.
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2- the long main leash attaches to two shorter sections tied-off to the top center of each door. The leash is used to lower the trap into the water and to pull the doors shut and retrieve it.
Secured to the top of the trap are two bait straps. Just take one hook and stretch it out of the square it is hooked around and give some slack and unhook the other end. take them out and set them aside. They will be discussed further down this page.
(2)
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3- Route the leash so it does not prevent the doors from swinging open enlarge pictrue (2) for example.Let the leash hang over the side towards the bottom. Next unhook the door bungee cords from the top of the trap . Note: these little hooks have a small flexible clip at the bottom of the opening, and if you push or pull when applying the clips at the small point it will go on an off easily. The top part of the hook is hard & rigid and will not move. . These type hooks are to keep them in place when using while under tension for activating the doors while your trap is ready for crabbing..
(3)
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4- Flip the trap onto its side, or lay on its top making sure the leash can slide as you swing one of the doors back around past the bottom to allow attachment of the free clip to the bottom of the trap floor. check picture (4) for example by clicking on the photo to get a larger view. This allows clipping on without any undue tension on the cord while setting up is performed. Our location for the snaps, is, the Second or Third cross wire from the corner, and the corner being the Hinge rail which is zero. Try the second wire first if not enough strecth when the doors are closed to open when let down on the floor, then go to the Third wire for a tighther stretch. Repeat step 4 for the other side. Caution : Do not over stretch the spring cords could result in damage to the clips and possible injury like snapping a rubber band to tight. Please take your time. Once you get the hang of it, it works really easy….
(4)
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5- Reroute the pull cord up around the doors and cage, and into the using position as you pick up on the cord to pick up the trap the doors will come to a complete closure as it is lifted off the floor. this is how you retrieve your trap off the bottom of the seabed. As you sit the trap down and relax tension on the leash the doors springs will pull the doors open automatically and lay flat on the seabed as you give it slack after you feel it sit down. The slack allows the the doors to pull the cord back thru the cage to achieve total opening of the doors with no extra cord in the way of crab entry. Hope this explains the procedure ok..
(5)
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(6) Now it's time to set up your bait Straps. With your trap doors open under tension and sitting on your floor or a table you can now reach inside your trap you will find two removable
bait straps. Remove the bait straps by unclipping one end letting off stretching of the cord and lift it out & set aside, take out the other one as
we only need to use one at a time. For our example we
will be using inexpensive, raw chicken legs.( these work the best or Ez ).Size and
quantity really does not matter as even the largest
crabs will readily attack a small bait.
Pretty good instructions for those who have never seen or used a Zip Ty...Using the supplied zip
ties, insert the pointed flat end through eye of one of the metal hooks. Our
example shows two zip ties placed in the correct position. (Zip ties are
plastic binding straps that once pulled tight, will not
come undone. One side of the zip tie is pointed, while the
other side usually has a round or square key type hole opening.
To insure you are inserting correctly just lay the zip ty flat on a table top or what ever, you will notice one side sticks up above the flat strap part and the other side is the same level as the flat strap part.
Always put the pointed end up and through the bottom of the flat strap side and pushing up & through and out the high raised side. This will insure the Tiny teeth along the length
of the zip tie catch inside the keyhole allowing only
one way in and you can not pull it back out. It is usually best to wrap around the bait before inserting tip and pulling through to tie your bait to the strap...
 ......  .....
Center and clip the bait strap inside the trap. Now
we're baited up
(6)
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(7) once your straps are baited up, you
can put your bated straps into a plastic zip lock bag,
then put inside the fridge till you are ready to go
crabbing, or freeze it till ready for your trip. It would be a good idea to take out of the freezer a little prior to going to your crabbing spot. This will give your straps some time to thaw out and make the bungle cords flexible for using...We know this from forgetting to do this ourselves. If you forget when you get to your spot put enough saltwater in you bag to submerge your baited straps and let it loosen up the cords...this usually does not take long to make em ply able...
(7)
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Our favorite spot to crab is
a protected inlet some where ...secret. We walk into shallow
water adjacent to a slightly deeper channel to set our
traps.
Our Traps also performs extremely well lowered
from piers, docks, and lowered beside the boat.
With a baited trap, pick up the leash closing the doors,
gently swing the trap away from you and into the water.
Keep a slight tension on the line as the trap sinks
to the bottom. When your sure the trap is sitting on
the bottom, give the leash a little more slack and you
should feel the doors open. How neat!
Gently walk away from the trap giving the leash plenty
of slack and secure the free end to something that will
not move or float away. (Remember, pulling on the leash
shuts the doors.)
Give at least 10 minutes for the bait odor to spread
around. Crabs will home in on the bait and enter the
trap.
Also if you are in a boat or at a pier or dock, just let the trap down till on the bottom give it slack feeling the doors open and you be ready....for Crab action.
Remember to let the trap sit for at least 15 to 20 minutes before picking it up. The crabs have to get the scent of the bait and detect no movement for them to go in and eat.....
Also when you are ready to check for crabs, take the slack out of the leash slowly till you feel just the slightest tension, THEN pick it up quickly!!! keeping pulling pressure all the way till up and out of the water.....once you have done this a couple times by first practicing you will have the trap mastered.....Good luck, and Happy Crabbing...
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When your ready to check your trap, grab your leash
and follow it back till your about 6 feet away from
the trap. Gently pull most of the slack without moving
the doors. This may take practice, the main thing is to not feel slack in your cord, With one smooth motion
pull the doors shut by lifting the leash straight up
as possible. Use of excessive force is just not needed at all to close the doors while picking up the trap, we recommend once you have tension on the leash with no slack in the cord a quick lift up...not a bass setting the hook jerk. Remember the
doors do not have far to travel for complete closure with weight being the reason for capture.
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While keeping constant tension on the leash, keeping
the doors shut, pull your trap upwards and towards you.
You may feel something(s) moving inside the trap. Those
are crabs!
Pull the trap completely out of the water and say hi
to your new little friends.
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Walk back to shore, hold the trap over your cooler
or bushel basket and carefully shake the crabs out one
side of the trap while holding on door shut at the top of the trap and giving the leash slack to allow the other door to open as you dump out the crabs. Watch your fingers!
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| Your
eyes do not deceive you! The photos above show
varying trap designs. We used photos from field testing
various versions. The version sold on this site is the most
dependable producer, easiest to carry, and best designed
of our various models. |
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Here's
a neat photo.
On one of our oldest prototypes dubbed "The Thurminator",
this bad boy wasn't practical due to it's size, weight,
and dependability. But its raw design was invaluable for getting down to the final and best design and materials..
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